Rhododendron Articles

        This past September my wife, Tekla, and I had an opportunity to make a small contribution to a group called the Western North American Rhododendron Species Project (WNARSP). This group is sponsored by the Rhododendron Species Botanic Garden in Federal Way and has been in existence for about three years. Their objective is to develop a comprehensive map and database for all populations of native rhododendrons in Western North America. This information will be kept as an inventory for wild populations and as a resource for those who are involved in research of native plants.
        Our opportunity to be involved came about during a discussion of our vacation plans with some friends one evening in August. We were planning to drive to Denver for a family gathering and were enlisted by our friends to "stop by" the Mt. Zirkel Wilderness area to look for a disjunct population of Rhododendron albiflorum. We were supplied with maps and some reading material and decided it would be a fun addition to our trip.
        The Mt. Zirkel Wilderness area is north of Steamboat Springs in Northwestern Colorado. The wilderness area is 160,648 acres straddling the continental divide and includes the Southern end of the Sierra Madre and Park Ranges and the Sawtooth Mountains. At the Steamboat ranger station we spoke with a staff botanist who had seen R. albiflorum in her travels through the wilderness area. She was interested in our quest and helpful in pointing us in the right direction.
        Also at the ranger station we learned more about the blow-down which occurred in parts of Mt. Zirkel area. On October 25, 1997, a freak storm blew out of the east with winds of 120 mph, flattening trees in its path. Pictures of the blow-down were reminiscent of scenes from Mount St. Helens in Washington State. Many parts of the wilderness area were closed and dangerous due to unstable and shifting trees.
        Duly warned, we set off from Steamboat Springs and went north 20 miles on paved roads to the tiny outpost of Clark. From there we proceeded on gravel forest service roads for another 20 miles, the roads progressively deteriorated to a pair of rocky ruts. We camped the first night on the Elk River at about 8,000 feet; the cold air conducting a choir of yipping coyotes and bugling elk.
        At sunrise we got up and jumped around until we warmed up enough to drive the rest of the way to the North Lake Trailhead. The last four miles took over an hour to travel and four-wheel drive would have been useful. If there had been any snow, the road would have been impassable, four-wheel drive or not.
        Our chosen destination was Wolverine Lake, one of a chain of lakes draining to the South fork of the Elk River just above 10,000 feet in elevation. This area was three or four miles south of the official locations of R. albiflorum already mapped. We were hoping to add a few more.
        In the last part of our drive we saw the reality of the blow-down. The storm only lasted a few hours but blew a path through the spruce and fir forest five miles wide and thirty miles long. Sights like these make one feel very small and cause me to wonder at the power of natural events. I hoped we would be able to get through to the area we were looking for.
        Arriving at the North Lake Trailhead at 8:30 in the morning, the air was still cold. We loaded our packs with food, clothing and camera gear while trying to keep our bagel and water breakfast away from the fearless and hungry gray jays.
        We began our walk at nine and spent the first hour climbing a thousand vertical feet of forested switchbacks. The trail leveled off and meandered along the top of a broad ridge forested in sub-Alpine Fir and Engleman Spruce.
        Another plant I was happy to see was Vaccinium scoparium, the tiny Grouseberry. I had seen small patches of this plant in various locations in Washington. Here it was the dominant understory ground cover. It looks much like the red huckleberry seen growing in the lowland forests all over Western Washington. It has bright green stems and membranous lime green leaves and tiny red berries that glow in the sun like Christmas lights. Unlike the red huckleberry, the Grouseberry only grows 6 - 8 inches tall and forms a thick ground cover. Here there are acres of it. Beautiful!
        We continue to climb although more gradually. In less than a mile from where we crested the ridge, we received our first sighting of Rhododendron albiflorum. A large population in glorious fall color, almost matching the bright yellow of the Quaking Aspen we had seen so much of on the drive up the road. The R. albiflorum was growing along both sides of the path and into the woods for about twenty yards.
        We took a few pictures in the morning light and proceeded on, planning to record information about this population on our way back. The big group of plants ended as abruptly as it began, and we continued to climb the ridge for another hour. We arrived at the unnamed stream crossing and broad swampy area the ranger botanist had described to us. Here we leave the trail and go cross-country to find Wolverine Lake. The weather is good and holding.
        Ten minutes off the trail and we begin to get a better idea of just how rugged this country is. Away from the creek the ground is dry and rocky with areas of dense shrub thickets. The forest is thinner here and the way is steep. It is also beginning to feel like bear country so I start whistling.
        We are really starting to feel alone out here. It's been a day and a half since we last saw any humans. I begin to think that help is not close at hand should anything go wrong. We continue down the ravine crossing the stream many times when our way is blocked by scrub or vertical rocks.
        We stop for lunch when we come across our second population of R. albiflorum. This group is pretty large but smaller than the first group and more scattered. The plants grow right along the banks of the stream where water is abundant. Almost all of the branch tips in this location have been grazed off by deer or elk.
        We are both tired and discuss turning back, but I convince Tekla to continue outbound for one more hour. I feel we are getting close to the lake, but we are not prepared to spend the night and it is already early afternoon. As we hike on, the ravine broadens and the forest becomes thinner and scattered with Quaking Aspen in fall color. If you have not seen this spectacle, it alone is worth a trip to Colorado in the fall. The smooth green trunks and bright yellow canopies glittering in the breeze are unforgettable. This is grand country!
        This is also the end of our hike. Where the ravine widens, the stream finds its way to a 30-foot fall. To get past the drop and reach the lake would mean spending the night. Still, our surroundings in this spot are spectacular.
        We are in the open now and can view the mountainsides. We see huge splashes of yellow aspen in the evergreen hills. After taking pictures of the wilderness beauty, we turn back, disappointed not to reach the lake. As we climb back into the narrower part of the ravine the way seems even steeper than it was coming down.
        We stop again at our lunch spot to take pictures of R. albiflorum and collect information about the habitat here along the stream. We determine the altitude, slope, aspect, exposure, soil type and plants associated with the Rhododendron. I take a few samples for herbarium specimens and look for seed. There is very little seed so I take none. It is beginning to get late, and we can hear thunder in the distance. We have been warned about how quickly the weather can change this time of year so we hurry.
        The way not only seems steeper but longer too. We are nearly exhausted by the time we come out of the ravine and reconnect with the trail. Still we have a couple more hours before we reach camp. We also have to collect data on the first population of our subject.
        The going is easier now and we take a much-needed break when we reach the plants. Then I stomp around looking for seed and photographs. Seed in this population is more abundant here but still not plentiful. I get samples from five different locations and more herbarium specimens. The late afternoon light is excellent and the R. albiflorum foliage is glowing; yellow orange red. We determine the population to be 420 paces long (along the trail) and about 20 paces wide. Other relevant data is recorded and we get back on the trail.
        We have run out of water and haven't crossed a stream for quite awhile. We're both parched. The rain (or snow) held off and we finally cross a stream where we can filter drinking water. We fill our bottles and walk on. Shortly after at six in the evening we arrive back at the trailhead exhausted and hungry. After food and a cold beer, (good planning), I label the seed and put the specimens into the plant press.
        We were both sound asleep by 7:30, oblivious to that night's chorus of elk and coyote. We awoke to heavy frost but still no snow. Wishing we had more time in these mountains we began the drive out, stopping many times for pictures and short walks on the Elk River.
        In my opinion, fall is the best time in high country. The air is clear, the days are warm and the only sign of human impact are the roads we drove on. We found what we were looking for even though we never reached our destination. Next year maybe we will.
        Five days after our hike the first big storm of the year dumped over a foot of snow. Our timing is very good.
        Rhododendron albiflorum grows all over the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges from about 3,000 to 5,000 feet elevation. If you hike in the mountains of Washington, you have probably seen it. You might ask why we would drive all the way to Colorado to see the same plant?
        The Colorado population of R. albiflorum is what biologists call a disjunct population. This plant is not known to occur anywhere in the nearly 1,000 miles between the Cascade Range and the Mt. Zirkel area. In 1993 Meredith Lane from Kansas State University conducted a comparative study of the Colorado and the Northwest populations and found them to be the same species although slightly different morphologically and chemically, (genetically distinct proteins). This difference was not enough to warrant distinct species status but did warrant acknowledgment as a variety.
        The Colorado plants are now labeled Rhododendron albiflorum var. warrenii. What we don't know is the range of this variant or how much of it there is. This is why we went there: to add two small dots to the map of known populations of this plant and possibly to add it to the collection at Rhododendron Species Botanic Garden. The WNARSP seeks data on all the native Rhododendron species and in some areas of the Northwest, data collection is urgent because of encroaching development. There is much work to do. If you know of native populations or are interested in this project there are all kinds of volunteer opportunities available, from data entry to fieldwork. You can contact me by telephone at Seymour Conservatory at 252-591-5330. Information on WNARSP is also available at the Rhododendron Species Botanic Garden Web page at www.Halcyon.com/RSF; their email is RSF@Halcyon.com. There will be mapping field trips in May and June; please help. It's rewarding and a great way to meet new friends. -Dennis Bottemiller

Members of the Western North American Rhododendron Species Project welcome participation and inquiries from all interested persons. Those of you who do not live near enough to the Foundation to attend meetings can still help by gathering information in your local area. For more information please contact the WNARSP Committee at the Rhododendron Species Foundation office at rsf@halcyon.com.

        After having gardened for almost fifty years, it is still a wonder to me how the various insects come and go. They are with us for several years to the point of destroying certain plants, then to have their population suddenly drop off almost to the point of extinction, only to be replaced by another insect that feasts on the same or different plants.
        Of course there is always the expectation that the first will some day return, only to see the second gone.
        Take caterpillars, for example. Only a few years ago caterpillars of all sorts infested the garden. Gypsy moths, inchworms, and 'loopers' were there as soon as the new growth appeared on the rhododendrons, chewing them up and making an unsightly mess of every plant. The wrens and catbirds were eating them (except the gypsy moth caterpillars, of course) and feeding them to their young. The past couple of years there have been very few caterpillars, certainly no gypsy moths. I wonder how the birds are faring? They are certainly in the garden, but do they raise fewer young because there is less food available? Or do they find some other source of food?
        How about slugs? Last year they were all over the garden in the early spring, mowing down all of the gingers and other small plants as quickly as they poked their heads up. This year, hardly any slugs. I suppose that was understandable given the hot, dry summer we had, but where were they in the spring?
        There were not many Asiatic Garden Beetles to chew the new growth in June and there was very little damage from them. Not to worry though, to replace these bugs we have had others that filled our days with problems. Wooly maple scale (or wooly camellia scale whichever you prefer) was a big pest this year. The white, wooly egg sacks about 3/8" long covered the underside of the leaves of the viburnums, the kousa dogwoods, the azaleas and the maple trees in the garden and in the woods. When they hatched out, the tiny crawlers were there to be seen, sucking the life out of the plants. A black coating covered the leaves and particularly the stems of many of these plants. It washed off of the taller trees and onto the leaves of the rhododendrons and other broad-leaved plants below.
        And now there is a new one, at least for me. Have you noticed the leaves on your elepidote rhododendrons having a long brown streak right down the length, sometimes on both sides of the center stern? How about the lepidotes that have their leaves injured in a similar way? In many cases they are skeletonized in the process.
        I spoke to Dan Gilrein at the Cornell Univ. Extension in Riverhead, and he suggested that I go out at night with a flashlight and see what I could find. I went out at about 9:00 PM and looked at the leaves of those plants that seem most affected. There was an insect that looked like a cricket, but was smaller and tan colored instead of black. I sent a sample to Dan and he identified it as a cricket, but since it was squashed a bit in the mail, he couldn’t be sure of the exact type.
        If you go out as I did (don’t worry what the neighbors think, they probably have opinions about your gardening activities already), you will see the cricket move backward along the leaf, chaffing the top surface as it goes. This is causing the damage that is green at first, but which will later turn brown.
        Where have these things been all these years? What has happened that they suddenly appear and cause us grief? I don’t know, that is for sure, but I do keep wondering. Now if I can only find out what causes those little yellow spots on the azaleas and even some of the lepidotes and elepidotes….. H. C. "Bud" Gehnrich.

"Bud" Gehnrich is a member of New York Chapter. He is immediate past president of the American Rhododendron Society. This article was printed from New York Chapter Newsletter October 1999. Permission granted by the author and New York Chapter Editor, Jim Fry.

        Although I will at least touch on all of my garden, the bulk of the tale will be about my Container Gardening. Excuse me beforehand if I get too carried away. I do enjoy writing, but often use more words than necessary to get a point across.
        With my loving wife of almost 38 years, I reside in Martinez, California, which is in Zone 9, and approximately 30 miles northeast of San Francisco. We are parents to a son and daughter, both grown, and grandparents to five very active -- but beautiful -- grandsons.
        My familiarity with gardening began at the same time I was born, which was nearly 60 years ago. My dad always had a vegetable garden and always produced more than our family could eat, and more than Mom could can or freeze. The "leftovers" went to other family members and to friends. Needless to say, we were never any problem to in-laws and had more friends than "Carter had pills."
        Although I have been around gardening my entire life, it wasn't till 25 years ago that it became my hobby. What started it all was the success I had transplanting three roses. The previous owner of our then-new house had planted them on the outer limits of the backyard lawn but still in the lawn. Well, I purchased three, 2" X 12" X 20' redwood boards, 4 yards of designer-quality topsoil, and the rest is history. So enthused was I on seeing the first rosebuds develop on the transplants and then into blossoms. It's a very rare occasion seeing me in our yard without "playing in the garden." And I do mean, "play." Call it "working in the yard," "cleaning up the garden," "toiling with the soil", etc. Those all mean using physical labor, sweating, fatigue, etc. To help me enjoy gardening, I always remind myself that I am "PLAYING" in the garden.
        We have two main gardens, a container garden and a regular garden, which I call our "ground" garden. The latter I have broken down into "sub" gardens, of which we have three. All of these are predominately roses. Here and there we have a few additional perennials such as sesbania, wisteria, clematis, delphinium, columbine, and buddleia. We avoid planting annuals in our ground gardens, simply because we are of the opinion they are a waste of money and time. As I mentioned above, our ground garden is mostly roses. One of our rose gardens consists of thirteen bushes and is located on the south and east sides of our house, about 18 inches from the wall. Another rose garden of ten bushes surrounds two sides of our ground-level deck. And a third rose garden, consisting of eight bushes, is in a two-level terrace in the backyard. Also in the backyard is a rose hedge, consisting of thirteen pink 'Simplicity' roses plus another half dozen roses sprinkled here and there. Every rose we have gets at least six hours of sun daily. Less than that can result in disease-stricken plants.
        Container gardening, particularly one consisting of numerous camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons, can be among the most rewarding experiences in one's life. Our container garden currently consists of 90-plus pots, pans, pickling crocks, homemade redwood boxes, all-steel wheelbarrow, wine barrel halves, a twenty gallon wood ice cream vat from the 1930s, and on and on… Container sizes range from as small as 1 inch in diameter to the wine barrels. And they contain -- in addition to the acid loving plants -- a huge variety of plants from Acer to Zinnias. It took a bit of experience and a few "How-to" books. But not a day goes by that I'm not rewarded by our container garden. And I shall devote the balance of this "short story" to container gardening, with emphasis on azaleas and rhododendrons.
        We currently have a total of 23 containers of azaleas and four of rhodies. The smallest is an azalea I purchased in bonsai form. It is now planted in a solid copper, one-quart pot. The largest is a 'Fireman Jeff' rhododendron, planted in a 20-inch clay pot. All the acid plants are on the north side of the house, lined up like little soldiers as near to the wall as possible, but leaving a couple inches between wall and plant for breathing room. They are located on the north side so that they get sun only till 10 a.m. Being in the sun much later in the day, particularly in the afternoon, can destroy azaleas and rhodies.
        I hand-water one hundred percent (100%) of our container garden. I water the rhododendrons every day, the azaleas every other day. I have installed drip systems on two occasions, only to yank 'em out after 2-3 weeks because the emitters would start plugging up. Plus, I subscribe to the notion "Watering is the dessert of gardening."
        As often as I water, I have never killed a plant by over-watering it. I learned way back that containerized plants must have excellent drainage. This is especially true with all acid-loving plants. They need constant moisture. They do not like to sit in water! When I have a pot that has an attached saucer, I drill a good-sized hole in the saucer, leaving it attached strictly for appearance.
        One final subject I feel is worth mentioning is potting soil. To begin with ALL acid-loving plants NEED acid planting soil. This is A MUST. And if at all possible, use only one single brand of planting soil. With five different brands, there will be five different degrees of moisture retention or lack of same. You don't need to guess if you don't have to.
        I do believe I've covered everything I can think of for this sitting. I certainly have enjoyed this friendly chat, and I hope I have helped at least one gardener. That is my feeling, simply because I have A Love For Gardening.

        Photographing Rhododendrons can be a lot of fun no matter what camera you use. From a Kodak Instamatic through 35 mm. to the larger format 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" or 4" x 5", all are capable of producing a pleasing picture of a Rhododendron in bloom. The challenge is to reproduce the whole shrub or a single truss and to do it in an artistically pleasing manner. Good color saturation, that is, strong pure colors rather than weak, washed out color, is the goal of the final print or slide.
        Interesting close-ups of single trusses, or even an extreme close-up of a single flower (if properly lighted and correctly exposed) can be worth the effort spent.
        Slightly overcast or diffused sunlight is better than clear bright sun, as the shadows arid high lights are not so 'contrasty.' Without shadows the subject has no form. But the dead black shadows produced by too bright a sun are also not desirable, as no detail can be seen in such shadows. Shadows that are semi-transparent, that is, some reflected light is filling in, are most pleasing and convey much more information about the flower form and detail.
        The cameraman has some control over many of the variables, such as light and shadow; color saturation; depth of field and (to some degree) choice of background.
        How then do we take advantage of all the variables that we can control? Of course, if the sun isn't shining at all we can't do much to control it; but if the day is average, the normal haze will be sufficient to diffuse the harsh sun and produce shadows with some reflected light filling them.
        The direction of the sun should be at approximately a right angle to the line between the camera and the subject; that is, the sun should not be directly behind your shoulder when you are facing the shrub or truss. Such lighting produces very flat pictures with very little contrast. Neither should the sun be directly in front of you as it is likely to shine in the camera lens and result in gross over-exposure and loss of detail. One exception is the use of carefully controlled backlighting to produce special effects, such as highlighting the indumentum on a close-up of a leaf and truss. If the sun is neither directly in front nor directly behind you, but rather off to the side, interesting shadows are produced which enhance the illusion of depth and form, giving three-dimensional qualities to the picture. To see this effect most easily, walk around a bush and notice the change in form at the different angles of the sun.
        To get a shot that is interesting and a little different: try shooting from a low angle with the blue sky as a background for the truss. To add even more interest, use a little back lighting. But, be careful of the sun shining in your lens. Another branch of the same plant or some other foliage, or even your hand held in the right place, will mask the sun from your lens without losing the effect of back lighting on the truss.
        For non-automatic cameras where focus and exposure can be manually adjusted, two things are important to keep in mind. Slight underexposure will produce richer, more fully saturated color. However, don't overdo it or the effect, though striking, will be unrealistic. Secondly, use your ratio of aperture to shutter speed to limit the depth of field; that is, the area of sharp focus, to only that part of the shrub or truss that is the main subject. By defocusing secondary trusses in the background, or other shrubs and branches that might be distracting, the primary subject is moved into the foreground of the picture. If you are working to get some special effect and require extremely great depth of field, use your tripod and time exposure so that you can use a very small aperture.
        When the garden is at its peak, your choice of shrub size and color and form will be unlimited. Have fun and take home some pictures you'll be proud to show.

This article has appeared in several Oregon Chapter Newsletters; Portland, Tualatin Valley and Willamette Chapters. Permission to use materials granted by the author, Ed Egan, and Newsletter Editors Kath Collier and Herb Spady.

Clint Smith is a rhody grower from Sumner, Washington. In recent years, he and Bill Heller have led tours of gardens in England, Scotland, Ireland and New Zealand. His title was expanded to "In Search of Rhododendrons in the Civilized World." Clint explained that he does want to travel and see rhododendrons around the world, but does not want to have to don queen-sized pantyhose to ward off leeches. He showed slides of the many beautiful gardens that have been included on his tours. He noted that in Ireland, three to five different hybrids were often planted close together. They did not all bloom at the same time, so that it appeared as if a shrub was in bloom over an extended period of time. He related that different hybrids sometimes do better in some places than others. For example, Viennese Waltz produces bigger and brighter blooms in New Zealand than it does in the Pacific Northwest. His travels have also convinced him that rhodys grow better on slopes, as the drainage is better. He observed that vireya rhododendrons in New Zealand have a different growth pattern than seen in greenhouses in the U.S.A. They are less leggy in New Zealand. Clint’s tour this spring will be to England, Cornwall and Wales. Anyone interested may contact him at (253) 840-2217. The spring 2001 tour will be to Scotland.

Frank Wann stressed the importance of Calcium to plants and even to rhododendrons. The relationship between the plant and soil is based upon rock and soil organisms. Soil is 5% organic matter, 45 % rock, 5% air and 25% water. For some reason that does not add up to 100%! Anyway, all the mineral elements in soil are rock. Some such as clay are very fine particles. Can you think of clay as rock? Clay particles are very important for retention of water and for filtration. Modifying clay soil takes time and quantities of materials. In clay, sodium or potassium has replaced the Ca⁺⁺. The addition of Ca⁺⁺ helps to break up the clay. Calcium can be applied in three forms, CaCO_3,limestone or rock phosphate (steamed bone meal supplies the same minerals as rock phosphate.). Soil microbes are needed to mobilize the Ca⁺⁺. Ca⁺⁺ ties up phosphate, so if you add Ca⁺⁺be sure the phosphate levels are high enough. The Ca⁺⁺/Mg⁺⁺ should be 7/1.

Larry Stanley of Stanley and Sons Wholesale Nursery in Boring, Oregon grows over 300 maples and 1500 conifers. They do over 30,000 grafts and 25,000 cuttings each year. In the last two years they have added more than 200 new cultivars to their collection. In addition to the traditional wholesale business they sell through the Internet, which has proved to be a very good way to market their plants. They maintain a one-acre Botanical Garden. Larry belongs to and is active in the American Conifer Society. He is a member of the Portland Chapter of the ARS.

Mr. Stanley's enthusiasm made you want every plant he showed. He is a collector at heart. It's really nice when you love and enjoy your work. He spoke of the compatibility of conifers and rhododendrons in the landscape. "God's answers to conifers are rhododendrons."

The word 'conifer' comes from the Latin word meaning 'cone-bearing.' But not all conifers have cones; some have berry-like fruit. Dwarf forms are a Stanley specialty in the conifers. A few of his many favorites shown were Abies grandis 'Aurea' (golden variety of fir), Abies koreana 'Silver Show' (Korean fir with leaves curled back to show silver underneath), Calocedrus decurrens 'Barrima Gold' (golden columnar incense cedar with orange tips in winter), Calocedrus decurrens 'Maupin Glow' (bright yellow new growth that glows), Cedrus deodara 'Raymond's Prostrate Dwarf' (a cedar ground cover with blue leaves), Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Gold Fern' (a very dwarf Hionki cypress which grows only one inch each year), Chamaecyparis pisferia 'Tamu Himura' (a dwarf Sawara cypress with blue leaves that are purple in winter), Picea pungens 'The Blues' (a powder blue weeping spruce introduced by Stanley & Sons), and Pinus parviflora 'Fubuki Nishiki' (a variegated white pine). In addition I learned that Ginkgos are conifers.

There are about 23 species of Japanese Maples. Since the 1600's the Japanese have been cultivating, breeding and selecting varieties. These maples come in all different forms: dwarfs, variegated, differing leaf sizes, differing fall colors and different spring colors. Stanley & Sons Nursery is known around the world for its collection. Among the maples (Acer) that were shown were an Acer conspicum cross 'Phoenix,' a new and very rare red snake bark maple that looks like Colgate toothpaste in winter with its red and white striped bark. Its leaf fall color is yellow. Other favorites included Acer circinatum 'Pacific Fire' (new and rare red barked vine maple with huge leaves that are rose over green but yellow in fall), Acer japonicum 'Attaryi' (with it's 8" leaves that are deeply dissected and scarlet to orange-yellow in fall), Acer palmatum dissectum 'Babylace' (a very small cascading maple with finely cut leaves that are pink in new growth), Acer palmatum 'Aratama' (very slow growing dwarf red variety with small red leaves), Acer palmatum 'Mikawa Yatsubusa' (best dwarf and a natural bonsai), Acer palmatum 'Orange Dream' (20 ft. maple with leaves that come out bright yellow with orange margins), Acer palmatum 'Peaches N Cream' (a cross between two variegated maples) and Acer shirasawanum 'Autumn Moon' (round chartreuse leaves with second new growth showing pink over gold).

The program was well received. Everyone went away wanting to hear more about these plants. Stanley & Sons Nursery Websites are www.stanleyandsons.com and www.agardens.com.

Tom and Mike described easy methods for creating troughs. They indicated that troughs are useful for the rhododendron grower for plants that require superior drainage. They demonstrated the use of several different types of forms that are readily available, such as pots and Styrofoam containers. The peat used should be screened through 1/4" hardware cloth. Grit can be Perlite, vermiculite or pumice. The grit is mixed with the cement before water is added. They used fiberglass or wire for reinforcing. Several days of curing are required. Tom used a thumb test to verify firmness of the mix. For a more natural effect the exterior is roughed up. If there are holes, they can be repaired with a cement-bonding agent and more mix.

Herb Gustafson is a professor at Lane Community College in Eugene. He was recently elected to the "International Bonsai Congress," a very prestigious honor. Herb has been involved with bonsai or growing plants in tiny containers since he was 8 years old. As a young boy, he would gather acorns, old teacups or any small item that would hold a bit of dirt and put little plants in them. One of the first things he told us was the correct way to pronounce "Bonsai." Bonsai (bone-sigh) is a beautiful word in Japanese but bonsai (pronounced bon-sigh) is a very bad word. 'Bon' means "pot" in Japanese and 'sai' means tiny. Contrary to popular belief most of the oldest bonsai are in Italy. He has the oldest living bonsai that has been proven and documented to be over 1600 years old. These plants are very valuable. This method of growing probably originated in Egypt. Pictures of miniature plants in shallow pots have been found in many of the crypts in the Pyramids.

Mr. Gustafson brought several bonsai to show. One was a grove of thirty-five year old English hedge maples about 14 inches high. A Japanese larch had leaves and cones which were dwarfed as well as the plant. He indicated this is usually what happens. Leaves, cones and flowers keep in proportion to the size of the plant. The key is keeping fertilizer and water at just the right amount to allow healthy but not abundant growth. He indicated ultra-violet light could also influence the character of growth. A Chinese elm was especially appealing. He brought two rhododendrons, R. impeditum (68 years old) and R. 'Pioneer' (20 years old). They bloom well and make a beautiful display of flowers each year.

Selective pruning is necessary to make a good bonsai. Blooming plants should be pruned early enough to allow bud set for the following year. To make and keep bonsai one must root prune as well as keep the plant pruned. The rootball is confined by squeezing with wire. After root pruning, rooting hormone with Vaseline is injected with a syringe and needle in the outer roots to stimulate quick root growth. One can also bare root a tree, take off the roots, put into pumice or other like medium to make it root properly. Strive to get the optimum root-soil proportion in the pot. At first the pot should have one-half roots and one-half soil. The next step (in time) should have 60% roots and 40% soil. The optimum is 70% roots and 30% soil. When an 80-20 ratio is seen, it is time to root prune again. Root pruning is not always a delicate process and he has actually taken an axe to the roots on occasion (for a tough wisteria). He said that root pruning should never be done after July 4^th. Mr. Gustafson has a Collector's Permit and stressed no one should ever take plants without one. Every year he takes his milled sphagnum, his hormone with Vaseline and a good map to find special plants to make more bonsai to enjoy.

Tom Price has put together a 5-6 hour program on CD-ROM, which will be available sometime in the future. His presentation was supposed to incorporate slides and video. Unfortunately, there were some problems with the computer set-up so none of the program was in color. His presentation showed the many different styles of Japanese gardens and included historical and religious themes. He noted that many gardens have allusions to historical events or religious significance. The Buddhist influence was around 500 BC, followed by the Taoist influence, which introduced the concept of the humble place of man in nature. The dry landscape became popular during the influence of Zen Buddhism, in about the 10^th century. The meaning of such a garden depends on one’s own experience. Stroll gardens became popular around 1600-1700 during the period of the warlords. Such gardens were seen as a place to entertain. The warlords had great amounts of property and sometimes had castles. They used bridges, paths, water features and teahouses. He noted that people in Japan might pay up to $500,000 for just the right large rock for their garden. In general, garden design principles include some of the following concepts: unity of universe, perspective, depth and scale. Rocks, pathways and bridges show stability, strength and connectedness. The sound of falling water and the use of corners in paths give surprise and sensory experiences. Very clear boundaries are typically a feature. While the images were not shown in color, the architecture of the gardens was quite apparent in black and white.

Jerry Harris began his lecture by saying he wanted us to 1) Enjoy the Beauty 2) Learn Something and 3) Grow Deciduous Azaleas. He gave a brief history of the cultivation and hybridization of the deciduous azaleas. The Ghent azalea group from Belgium was the earliest to be hybridized and began as early as 1820. Next came the Knap Hill azalea group about 1880. Anthony Waterer, Sr. from Knap Hill Nursery used the Ghent azaleas in these Knap Hills. He is considered "The Father of the Deciduous Azalea Hybrids." The Mollis Azaleas from Belgium came in 1861. In 1922 Lionel de Rothschild from Exbury in England obtained some seedlings from Knap Hill, which were the basis for the famous Exbury azaleas.

Mr. Harris has used several Knap Hill azaleas and R. 'Klondike,' an Exbury cross, in his hybridizing. These were obtained from Marge Farwell in Woodside, California. He made his first cross in 1976 and was rewarded with flowers in 1981. In 1979 he obtained seed from the ARS seed exchange, a Ghent hybrid which contained R. speciosum, R. calendulaceum, R. nudiflorum (now known as R. periclymenoides), and R. luteum. He has used R. occidentale with the Knap Hills. Using a R. 'Knap Hill Yellow' x R. 'Klondike' cross and R. 'Hotspur,' he has developed a group that he calls the Queens group. A Princess series consists of the Exbury R. 'Gibraltar' crossed with a 1985 original Harris cross. This plant has consistently produced seven and one-half inch ball trusses. He has done a number of other crosses as well. Although he is proud of the plants he has produced, he has declined to name any of them. His belief is that plants should be tested thoroughly before any of them are named.

Mr. Harris' goals are to: 1) produce very large trusses with clear colors; 2) select for fall foliage colors and 3) have easy to grow and propagate plants.

Steve Hootman is the co-executive director and curator of the Rhododendron Species Foundation. He discussed dwarf and other small species. He pointed out that alpine plants need well-drained soil and a lot of light, but not a lot of heat. They do best if they face the east, so they do not get hot afternoon sun. They do well in a mix of ¾ coarse sand and ¼ bark. Steve discussed the growing and blooming habits of various dwarf species, and noted which ones are relatively easy to grow and which ones are just about impossible to grow outside of their normal habitat. R. williamsianum, for example, is fairly easy to grow, but is very shallow rooted and can dry out easily. Rhododendron haematodes is easy to grow and blooms every year. His favorite lapponicum is R. hippophaeoides. Rhododendron flavidum, another lapponicum, is easy to grow and has yellow flowers, which is unusual for the lapponicums. He described R. caloxanthum, a campylocarpum subspecies, as very easy to grow. It has yellow flowers. (This may be easy to grow, but I have found it not to be very available). For those who like R. forrestii var. repens, he stated that the best form is Berg-Sinclair, which blooms heavily every year. He noted that other forms tend not to bloom. Although R. pronum is a good-looking plant, Steve related that Warren Berg’s plant is 32 years old and has yet to bloom. He said that R. recurvoides blooms quite easily and can take quite a bit of sun. Of R. calostrotum, he recommended the Gigha form as having the most blooms and being easy to grow, as well. Rhododendron campylogynum will grow in fairly deep shade, but does better in some sun. Rhododendron pemakoense is easy to grow and flowers readily; however, the blooms are very sensitive to frost. Rhododendron moupinense is very drought resistant once it is established in the garden. It too blooms early and has flowers sensitive to frost. Rhododendron nakaharai is hardy, heat tolerant and a late bloomer. Rhododendron nakaharai 'Mt. Seven Star' is the best red form. Rhododendron canadense is a very hardy deciduous azalea that can be grown in a wet area. Steve mentioned many other species; including some he stated were very difficult to grow.

Hank Schannen always proves interesting and informative. He traced the history of R. degronianum ssp. yakushimanum var. yakushimanum. Koichiro Wada collected on the top of the island of Yakushima. He sent two plants to Rothschild in 1932. These became the Exbury and FCC forms. Hank indicated that they might be the same. The island of Yakushima is in typhoon alley so the plants are subject to rather severe conditions. (Although the weather is violent it is not very cold on the top of the island. It is odd that the plant is so hardy. Editor) He expressed the opinion that 'Ken Janek', 'Mist Maiden', 'Pink Sherbet' and the Phetteplace form are all probably R. smirnowii x R. degronianum ssp. yakushimanum var. yakushimanum hybrids from English seed. First generation hybrids are dominated by the yak tendency to create apple blossom pinks fading to white. 'Nestucca,' 'Trinity' and 'Mardi Gras' are hybrids that he described as doing well in the East. Hachmann's hybrids are more complex and more colorful. Hank closed by listing the species that might yield interesting results if used more in crosses to yak. They are R. niveum, R. rex ssp. fictolacteum, R. lanatum, 'Rosevallon', R. strigillosum, R. pseudochrysanthum, R. proteoides, R. pachysanthum, R. campanulatum ssp. aeruginosum, R. brachycarpum and a superior form of R. smirnowii.

From the November 1999 Willamette Chapter Newsletter. Permission to use was granted by Herb Spady, Editor.

Over two hundred fifty people attended the Eastern Regional Rhododendron Conference in Williamsburg, Virginia. The season was a delight with a good display of fall foliage color. The historic site provided continued education into the colonial period and the revolution. As one might expect the programs focused on hardiness and subgenus pentanthera (native azaleas). The conference included a plant sale, book sale and photo contest. The photo contest had a large collection of top-notch entries.

The program opened with Hank Schannen presenting a review of hybridizing from the 18th century to the present. His emphasis was on the development of plants suitable for the northeastern and central eastern U.S. environment. He mentioned the importance the early use of the hardy parents (R. maximum, R. caucasicum and R. catawbiense) by the Waterers and Cunningham. The flood of species from Asia and their use by English and West Coast hybridizers was noted as of little benefit as far as hardiness was concerned. From 1920 onward eastern hybridizers began improving the plants available in their areas. One milestone in the process of improvement was the introduction of R. yakushimanum to England in 1932 and subsequently to the U.S. He summarized the problems with rhododendrons as hard to grow; needing special care; subject to early death; short-lived flowers; victims of petal blight, powdery mild, lace bug and weevils and declining public interest. He then went on to describe his ideal changes in rhododendron hybrids as increased hardiness, compact growth, dark green leaves, aggressive and deep root systems, interesting flower and leaf shapes, double flowers and more flowers in the truss. The newly introduced Finnish hybrids have a good root system that could be passed on to hybrids. He noted that these goals would be advanced by using some rarely used species such as R. proteoides, lanatum, pronum, smirnowii, erosum and others. He encouraged exchanging pollen and ideas more aggressively including by the Internet and continuing to seek yellows and orange hybrids hardy to -20°F.

For anyone wishing to observe the plants first hand he provided a detailed list of the sites and blooming times, but cautioned that blooming may vary from year to year. Consult locals if you want to tour during the most propitious times.

David Sauer certainly has a lot of enthusiasm and passion for the new Kurumes. He has a wonderful sense of humor. After some humorous remarks about quitting high school to attend college (and a few other such stories), he gave a little history of how the Kurumes came to our country. Fifty varieties of the finest plants were collected by Dr. John Creech, Dr. Frederick Meyers and Mr. Sylvester March from the Kurume Branch, Vegetable and Ornamental Research Station, Kurume, Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan. These were placed in the National Arboretum, Washington, D.C. Thirty-three of the plants were later released to George Harding in 1983. David Sauer received the Harding collection in 1988. The rest are to be released within the next year. He says he has trouble remembering all the Japanese names, but he certainly sounded proficient when he used the Japanese names. He likes to visit about his plants when he goes into the garden, so often he thinks of them by such names as "Dancing Dragons"(not 'Tennyo no mai') or "Brick Red Tree" (not 'Rikyugonomi') etc. We strolled through the garden with him with the use of slides. Among the trees in the woodland were these gorgeous Kurume azaleas, many of which were as tall as a man. He said that 'Wakaebisu' was the lowest growing one he has, 'Hino Tsukasa' was the most intense red and that 'Tokoharu' bears many sports. 'Oogocho' has a red eye, 'Fukukido' has stripping in the flower and 'Iwato Kagami' is a hose-in-hose flower. He indicated that the descriptions listed in Galle's book, Azaleas, may not seem to be accurate. This is not because they were incorrect at the time they were made. David Sauer explained that young plants in this group often appear different from plants after they are more mature (several years old). Plants of the same clone side by side but of different ages substantiate this. He says the older plants "settle down" after a while. He has made it his mission to get the New Kurumes propagated and distributed to the public. A Website has been made about "New Kurume Hybrids." This can be found at http://users.erols.com/dsauer/5_plant_intr_pgs.htm.

Paul James, plantsman, collector and evaluator has an extensive collection of eastern hybrids in his large garden near Roanoke, VA. He delighted the audience with preliminary views of his garden and then went on to display photos of one hundred and twenty-five Delp and Haag hybrids. He recounted their backgrounds and qualities. His extensive collection will provide keen insights into the value of these hybrids.

Don Hyatt combined his expertise with rhododendrons and computers to demonstrate ways to enhance the garden experience. He laced his program with humorous images of computers physically in the garden. Don glossed over the programs* available to convert text to hypertext markup language (the coding for Internet files) and moved quickly into discussing the coding that will enhance a WebPage. The coding is rather straight forward, but computers allow no mistakes major or minor. He demonstrated techniques for adding graphics, centering, linking (internal and external) and changing background colors. He gave information about making files available to other people on the Internet by placing them on a "server" that is running on the Internet 24 hours a day and has a recognized "domain name". He recommended finding additional resources on the Internet and in a good reference book like Web Design in a Nutshell published O'Reilly & Associates, Inc. He noted that one can also learn a lot by looking at the coding of other people's web pages by clicking on the "View" option, and then on "Source". The browser will open a new window and will show you the HTML code that created the page. He provided handouts listing useful email lists, search sites and links to rhododendron information. Don spent considerable time on one of the general aspects of the conference, eastern native azaleas. When demonstrating web techniques he showed a program that he is developing regarding the native the azaleas. When that program is completed it will provide an excellent resource for the verification of the authenticity of the azalea "species" in ones garden. With all the natural hybrids that have been pawned off as species there will be many disappointed collectors. Regardless of that disappointment this should be a great resource. You can appreciate Don Hyatt's expertise by visiting his Websites Don Hyatt's Garden Center and Don Hyatt’s Good Doers.

*Attendee's note: (When creating large sites these programs are a great resource. Although it is not difficult to create a "First Page" using direct coding, extensive Websites are more easily created using programs that convert text files to HTML. It is worthwhile to know how to tweak the files, thus created, with the insertion of modification of the HTML coding.)

Ms. Nelson has traveled to many gardens since she became editor of the Journal American Rhododendron Society. She showed slides from a few of the many gardens that inspired her to write her forthcoming book. Her photography is excellent and her eye for the appealing is an art. She discussed what makes a garden. She indicated that there are many ways but she believes that these need to be combined to make an effective landscape. Her message for this was:

Tony Avent of Plant Delights Nursery, Raleigh, North Carolina delighted the audience with his famous humor and expertise. His enthusiasm and love for the plants he grows was certainly contagious. One only had to look at the cover of his catalogue, which each person received, to know you were about to experience an entertaining evening in which you gained a lot of knowledge. We weren't disappointed. From Arisaema to Zepyyranthes he showed us the joys of growing companions to rhododendrons. I think his favorites this year were the Arisaema. His catalogue seemed that way, too. Featured on the cover is a basketball game with two teams (of Arisaema), the Detroit "Pistils" and the Chicago "Bulbs." The players are caricatures of different Arisaema. Placards around the court read, "Storm the Corm," "Root for the Home Team," "Just Grow It," "Herbacious!" and "Fertilize." WBUD is the FM radio station announcing the play by play. A Bumblebee is the referee. The fans are other kinds of caricatured plants. Mr. Avent declares that these plants (Arisaema, commonly known as Jack-in-the-Pulpits) must have been brought here from Mars by aliens. Although he says they are easy to grow, he did warn beginning growers. He spoke of other plants as well, Hosta, Iris and others. Everyone enjoyed the evening.

Victoria Rhododendron Society, a chapter of the American Rhododendron Society, has archived several excellent articles from their Website. These archived articles can be found at http://victoria.tc.ca/Recreation/RhodoSoc/archived.htm

Your comments are welcome. Is there a subject you would like to read about? Send your ideas to bettyspady@aol.com.

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HOMEPAGE	CALENDAR	ARS	RHODOS
PEOPLE	GARDENS	BOOKS	ARTICLES
BITS	EXCHANGE	IDEAS	MAIL BAG

Attribute	Fairfax, VA	Bent Mountain, VA
Elevation	450 feet	2,600-3,000 feet
Soil	Micaceous silt pH 5.5	Decomposed granite--gritty & rocky pH 5.7
Exposure	Shade--Mostly tall trees	Some overstory--others open
Snow	30" once in 30 years	30" once in 6 years--frequent ice storms
Temperatures--low	0 to -5°F	-5°F to -10°F (-13°F)
Temperatures--high	105°F maximum	90°F maximum
Weather factors Rain	45" yearly	40" yearly
Wind	Less wind at ground level	High winds in winter
Night temperatures	75°F	60°F to 70°F