LOCATION

    As rule of thumb the larger the leaves of a rhododendron plant the more shade it will need. Larger leaves also need some protection from the wind. Most small leafed plants grow in exposed, sunny locations on the sides of hills in very rocky soils. They tend to be plants low to the ground giving them less of a profile exposed to the updrafts of the hills. All rhododendrons tend to grow in colonies that help create microclimates within the group, adding protection for those plants near the center of the colony.

SOIL

    Rhododendron, because of their mountainous location in the wild, need very little as far as nutrition. However, they do need excellent drainage. No rhododendron will survive for long with constantly wet fees. This is especially a problem where soils are primarily clay.
    By planting the plants on top of the wet ground in raised beds this drainage problem is all but eliminated. Rhododendrons will grow more lush in soil which is fairly rich in organic matter. Stones in the soil, other than large amounts of limestone, help to drain the soil and to keep roots cool. Soil should be acidic, as is the case for soils where rhododendrons grow naturally. Plants should be planted to no greater depth than they were at the nursery. It is better to err on the side of too shallow. Plants that are purchased in containers (B & B are more easy acclimated to new locations) may be root bound. If roots are growing around the container, rather severe cutting of the root ball with a knife is necessary to allow for roots to penetrate the surrounding soil and produce new roots. When plants have been grown in "soiless" mixes, it is difficult for new roots to penetrate the heavier soil of the garden. The soil around the plant must be loosened to allow for the growth of new roots. This also facilitates the penetration of water and air to the rhododendron roots. Since rhododendrons seldom send down much of a taproot, the wellbeing of the fine roots near the surface of the soil beneath the plant will be reflected in the visible health of the plant. Mulching around the plant with bark or pine needles will help to conserve moisture for the roots as well as keep the temperature of the soil lower, more in keeping with natural conditions of the plant in the wild. If you work fresh bark into the soil, it must tee amended with ammonium nitrate to replace the nitrogen depletion that occurs with the initial rotting of the bark. Extra water, especially during the first two growing seasons, will pay off in less stressed, healthier rhododendrons.

FERTILIZER

    Generally rhododendrons will grow without the addition of fertilizer to the soil. However, acidity of the soil must be maintained as it is this acidity that allows the plant to take in and process nutrients. A light dressing of sulfur in the late fall or early spring will maintain the proper acidity in most cases. Sprinkling the sulfur on the snow helps to show the amount that you are distributing around each plant. Under certain special circumstances chilated iron, a soluble form of the element, may be needed to maintain acidity. If you do fertilize, make sure that the fertilizer does not contain aluminum as this can build up in the soil and eventually kill the plants. Unfortunately some commercial fertilizer companies include aluminum sulfate as a major ingredient.
    Fertilizing may take place, usually no more than twice a year, at any time after the plants go dormant to about the end of June. Too late of an application of fertilizer during the summer causes a late spurt of new growth causing the plant to go into winter without hardening off, and it will die back during the cold winter months. Also flower buds will not have a chance to develop.

MICRO-CLIMATES

    Making good use of the micro-climates that occur in most yards - the warmth of the lee of a building or wall, the overhead protection of a large tree, the side of a hill out of the wind, or the proximity of a group of plants - will often allow enough protection to grow plants that are not normally hardy within your growing zone.

DEAD HEADING

    Removing the seed capsules from the rhododendrons as soon as possible after they flower will allow the energy used by the plants to produce seed to be-directed towards new growth and the production of flower buds for the following year. Deadheading is relatively easy when plants are young but can become a monumental task on older shrubs that are nearing maturity. Fortunately as the plants get too large to dead head, they have the energy to carry the seed. They may not produce quite as many flowers; but, by then, you will have enough plants not to mind.

TRIMMING

    There are two schools of thought on the trimming of rhododendrons. Commercial growers almost always remove the apical bud from newly rooted cuttings or just after flowering on older plants. This produces a hormone within the plant that triggers the growth of the secondary or side buds, thus quickly giving the nursery a full neat looking plant. It also creates top heavy plants that may not have enough trunk size to carry the weight of the additional growth causing the plant to split. In addition it tends to make the plants look somewhat unnatural. The second method is to simply let the plant make its own shape. In this case the grower removes dead wood and the occasional wild shoot, but allows the plant to take its natural shape. Naturally shaped plants usually survive the tough winters with drying winds and heavy snowfalls better than do the more dense plants created by pruning or disbudding.

FOLIAGE

    Although rhododendron flowers are beautiful, they last, at best, about two weeks. The remaining fifty weeks the gardener is left to look at the plant. Growing plants with beautiful foliage makes sense. Rhododendrons with their thick, evergreen leaves, often covered with indumentum that can vary from white to orange, are among the most beautiful foliaged plants in the world. The leaves' shapes can vary from the tiny, aromatic, blue leaves of R. impeditum to the giant leaves of R. grande. Maintaining interest in the garden throughout the year is a bonus that is easily realized with rhododendron.

GARDEN DESIGN

    There are rhododendrons for all types of gardens. Most of us plant plants with a particular design in mind whether it has to do with size, texture, structure, or color. Most of us plant too many plants in too small a place, forgetting that even the most dwarf of plants get larger with age. One of the bonus characteristics of rhododendrons is their shallow root system. If a plant looks out of place, it is a simple job to dig around the plant, preserving as much root width as possible. Dig under the plant, and place the plant on a piece of heavy canvas or plywood, facilitating the dragging of the plant to its new location. After moving a plant, it is important to treat it as you would a newly purchased plant, taking extra effort to water the plant during hot weather and prior to dormancy in the fall.

    Fifty million years ago rhododendrons existed in much the same form as some of the present day big leaf forms from Asia (Leach).   There is no presently known history of the rhododendron until the early Christian era, and then it was skimpy and misleading until Linnaeus established the genus in his monumental book published in 1753.  Rhododendrons were first recommended as plants for garden decoration by Parkinson in 1629.  During the last 200 years there has been a continuously growing knowledge and record of the rhododendrons that have been collected for, and grown in, the Western World .  Among the many publications here in North America:

• Rhododendrons of The World - Leach
• American Rhododendron Hybrids - Kraxberger
• Getting Started With Rhododendrons - Clarke
• Rhododendrons in America - Van Veen
• Guidebook to Available Rhododendrons - Greer
• Rhododendron Hybrids A Guide to Their Origins - Greer and Sally
• Rhododendrons of China - The Rhododendron Species Foundation

There are the very excellent and very specific publications from Great Britain, such as:

• The Rhododendron Yearbook (1980) - R.H.S.
• Notes from R.B.G. Edinburgh Vol. 39 #1- James Cullen
• Notes from R.B.G. Edinburgh Vol. 39 #2 - D. F. Chamberlain
• The Rhododendron Stud Book - R.H.S.
• The Three Books by Peter Cox

    This information and these publications are all the products of Europeans and North Americans. Some of the North American Indians, have known and have had an affinity with rhododendrons for a very long time. In our Maritime area, Rhododendron maximum was known to the Micmac Nation as 'The Green Tree' because it was not deciduous. In the winter they would break off a branch and carry it with them and offer it as a greeting gift to friends that they visited.
    I suspect that as time goes on we will find that the Orientals have a much longer record of the rhododendron than we presently realize.  It is most important for any serious study of rhododendrons to know the excellent works of Dr. Wen-Pei Fang, and the other Chinese botanists, Chen, Wang and Yu. Dr Fang is presently involved in the preparation of the Rhododendron section of the eighty volume Flora of China.   The American Rhododendron Society and the Rhododendron Species Foundation have recently translated, from Fang's 1974 work, and published Rhododendrons of China. This book contains prints of all the original illustrations from Fang's work. This is an excellent help in identifying and understanding the rhododendrons of China.  The Japan Rhododendron Society very likely has some very interesting information on the history of the Rhododendron. Certainly the publication in 1692 of A Brocade Pillow, by Ito Ihei, suggests this.

So, where are we now in Eastern Canada?

I know that in the Niagara Region there are:

• A very favourable environment for a wide range of plants
• A considerable number of enthusiastic plants people
• A number of individuals actively breeding rhododendrons very successfully - Al Smith, Rudi Behring, Brian Schram, Jack Looye and Lyall Fritz.

I know that in the Toronto Region there are:

• The inheritance from Leslie Hancock
• Quite a favourable environment
• A number of individuals doing significant breeding - Ken Duncan, David Hinton, the neophyte Rich Birkett and one of the finest breeders ever and one most significant to extending rhododendrons further northward, Dr. J. B. Brueckner.
• Members growing rhododendrons in quite widely varying environments!

Further to the East in Atlantic Canada we have:

• The inheritance of plants bred by Dr. Craig and the late George Swain. Besides the selected and named plants there is a significant pool of proven material, which could provide a sound basis for further breeding.
• Further and important breeding being done by Dr. Craig, Walter Ostrom, John Weagle, Dr. Harvey and others. This is presently very promising because of the diversity of their aims and the objectivity with which they are proceeding.
• An expanding range of plants being grown. Progress is being slowly made in establishing hardy forms of the rhododendron species.

• Recently, Dr. Cullen of the Royal Botanical Garden, Edinburgh sent us 41 clones of lepidote species, from the highest elevations from which collection has ever been made. All above 11,000 feet. These plants will be grown on and we will ask authorization to distribute plants to any of our regions that would like to conduct trials of their performance.

    I would like to make a few comments on Seed Distribution, Rhododendron Truss Shows, and The Hybrid Explosion.
    There are commercial sources of rhododendron seed but these are mostly limited in scope and quite variable in quality and accuracy.   There are many seed exchanges run by horticultural groups. Several of these are excellent sources of a wide range of seed for both species and hybrids, as well as seeds of many plants suitable as companions for your rhododendrons.  The American Rhododendron Society has an enormous range of material. They have listed it so that it is easy to view the species and the hybrids separately, as well as identify easily the selfed seed, the open-pollinated seed and the hand-pollinated crosses. Their seed comes from donors in North America as well as in many countries of Europe, and Japan.  The Royal Horticultural Society in England has an extensive list that also includes many ornamental plants other than rhododendrons. The American Rock Garden Society, The Alpine Garden Society, and The Scottish Rock Garden Club are other sources.  Our own Rhododendron Society Of Canada* Seed Exchange is more limited but is growing and improving as we gain experience. There is now a large volume of applications for our seed from United States enthusiasts. A major value of our Exchange is that the seed is from plants already successful in our climate.

    Rhododendron Truss Shows are very valuable to our Society for a number of reasons, and I would like to advocate an increase in their numbers, so as to provide at least a window for our earlier bloom.  Truss shows do the following:

• They bring rhododendrons to the attention of the public.
• They often result in new rhododendron growers, and the spread of these plants to new areas. They permit "up-close" scrutiny of a wide range of good trusses.
• They often stimulate members to grow their rhododendrons better.
• They bring enjoyment and pleasure to people, generally without cost.
• There are some weak features (or bad points) to these shows and we should remain aware of these:
• They focus our attention on a very brief span of the whole bloom period. Often it is the same brief period year after year.
• They focus our attention on a very small area in the performance of the whole plant. (I have seen plants that are generally "Real Dogs" in plant habit and performance, that have won high honors!)
• They sometimes encourage participants to baby, coddle, protect, groom and manipulate a plant or a truss for 'The Show'. This can mislead regarding the normal performance of the plant.

    There has been a Hybrid Explosion in recent years. Hundreds of new hybrids are now appearing each year with a vast range of attributes. Presumably all of them perform well in the originator's garden. But will they do well in yours? That is The Question!  Basically it is well to remember the following points:

The European breeders are breeding for the climate of Europe.

• The American breeders are breeding for the various climates of America.
• The Japanese breeders are breeding for the various climates of Japan.
• Although it is often worth trying some of the interesting plants from climates unlike our own, remember that generally the best prospects for us are those plants or seeds with environments relatively similar to where we wish to grow the plant.

We in the Rhododendron Society of Canada:

• Seek to learn all we can of Rhododendrons
• Try them in our gardens
• Assess their value to us in enjoyment, durability and ease of maintenance.
• Then, through Rhododendron shows, Tours, Slide shows and Dull speakers - We Show and Tell!
• This seems to be at present one of the major functions of our Society, and probably the most important.

*[The Rhododendron Society of Canada is now a District of the American Rhododendron Society. There are three chapters, RSC Atlantic Region, RSC Niagara Region and RSC Toronto Region. These notes and lectures were given before the association of the two Societies, however these remarks still apply. Editor]

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    I would like to look at four general areas:

• Expanding Our Horizon
• More Flexible Use of Rhododendrons
• Horticultural Development
• Rhododendron Societal Responsibilities

Expanding Our Horizon

We should now consider expanding our horizon. We should encourage and promote the growing of rhododendrons in areas of Canada where at present they are not used, or, are grown only rarely and then with considerable effort.  If the Society feels that we should do this, then this would require:

• Recruiting enthusiastic pioneers in those difficult geographical areas who would be willing and able to put forth both financial and physical efforts.
• Acquiring and testing existing plants that have qualities that offer the prospect of their succeeding in new and difficult areas.
• Encouraging breeders to establish programs aimed at producing suitable plants for new areas.
• Aiding the members in the new areas in commencing the breeding of their own rhododendrons that would be climatically compatible with that environment.
• Arranging with our horticultural research institutions to develop rhododendrons with sufficient hardiness for those Canadian climates.

    The research that is taking place in the co-operation between the famed Mezzit family of Weston Nursery in western Massachusetts and Harold Pellett of the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum is a particularly pertinent base in such endeavours (see ARS Journal Vol. 40 #4 Fall 1986, page 203).   It is most desirable that we request our government research facilities and the universities to probe enthusiastically into the prospects of using genetic engineering to substantially increase the hardiness in rhododendrons and other ericaceous ornamental plants.  This would be particularly pertinent, observing that the arrival of the Europeans resulted in the destruction of our native stands of Rhododendron maximum and Rhododendron atlanticum in the Maritime Provinces.

I should explain that when I speak of improving the hardiness I mean to improve the plant in any, or preferably all, of the following qualities to:

I. Weather / Plant Study Group

• It could be a long-range study, reporting at five-year intervals.
• It could gather information and collate records and data on temperature, wind, sun, rain and drought then relate the effects on our plants.
• It could examine the relationship of weather (drought particularly) to bud set.
• It could examine the relationship of weather to the number of flushes of growth annually.

II. Breeders Roundtable Discussion Project

    For the general review and discussion by both breeders and those with a general interest, on objectives for breeding and the results which are being obtained. Perhaps also to promote target areas for breeding, or to eliminate duplication.

III. Horticultural Information Review Project

    To scan all sources of information and draw any pertinent subjects to the attention of members.  It seems appropriate to consider if periodic workshops (particularly during the winter doldrums) are desired by the members, to discuss problems, examine technical equipment, see practical demonstrations of breeding, seed screening, preparing and medium and sowing seed, slides and discussions of new hybrids, study session on species rhododendrons or on companion plants. This might well take the form of inter-regional informal morning or afternoon meetings.

    Looking at the whole broad canvas of today's world, we see barbarism, brutality, great noise pollution, vandalism, increased disregard for others, more and more people being pressed into tight cramped areas, with many other fractious and stressful elements in their daily lives.  When we turn and look inwardly at Canada, at our own city, town or village, we quickly realize we are not immune to some of these growing problems. It then becomes quickly evident, that in many of our areas, particularly those of growing population density, there is need for places of restful relaxation and quiet contemplation.  There is privacy in one's own room, and there is quiet in having one's own home; however it is even more relaxing and soothing in the environs of a restful garden. Even the more the gardenless public needs the solace and soothing serenity of public gardens and green spaces.  Green, durable, peaceful, and superb as a noise baffle, is the rhododendron, and during the bloom period it is a riot of colorful gaiety. A well established rhododendron, if treated properly can last more than 250 years. What cost effectiveness!  Consequently it is important that we encourage and promote the creation of both private and public gardens planted with rhododendrons and other plants appropriate to our climate.

    It is most distressing to observe that in the very brief period since the retirement of Dr. Craig from the Agricultural Research Station at Kentville, Nova Scotia, that unique and most important gene bank of rhododendrons shows noticeable signs of disregard, degeneration and dispersal. At this rate it may not be very long before a large portion of the most important aspects are lost forever!  Weed trees and shrubs are already commencing to appear in the beds.  All projections for continuance and improvement seem to have disappeared.  Short life species are coming rapidly to the end of their time and need renewal.  It is understood that similar circumstances may be about to commence at Vineland!  It has just been noted that Dr. Felicitas Svejda, the ornamental plant breeder at Ottawa, has retired without replacement. It seems that no real ornamental plant breeding will be done in the entire Federal Government system.  Our Society, at both the Regional and National levels, should each establish a commission to investigate these significant and degenerate portents of neglect. When accurate details are known, appropriate action should be immediately taken - by the National authorities with the Federal Government and by the Regional authorities with the Provincial Governments

**************************

On April 26, 1999, Captain Steele writes in an email message:

By The Garden Weevil

    About 20 years ago, we moved to Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories. Until that time, my sons had spent all of their short lives in isolated settlements across the Arctic. So when they came running in breathlessly to tell me of a garage sale down the road and that there were so many things I would like, I gave them some change. (Life in civilization was full of discoveries for them.) They bought a little book for me for 10 cents that I have treasured to this day. It is called 'Old Wives' Lore For Gardeners' by Maureen & Bridget Boland. It contains some very sage tips and wisdom presented with humour and wit - a real little gem of a book! They gardened near Westminster Abbey and to quote from the authors; "We are not Old Wives ourselves, being in fact old spinsters and complained that modern gardening books were lacking in "practical advice of the grandmotherly kind .... (so) we decided to pass it all on to those who are not afraid of finding a certain amount of superstition mingled with good sense." About garden pests, the sisters advise: "If it moves slowly enough, step on it; if it doesn't, leave it - it'll probably kill something else."
    For many years I was confused as to what were good bugs and what were bad bugs. I killed many a good beetle. Having learned that ground beetles are very valuable in any garden, I then spent years leaving anything that was big, ugly and beetle-like alone, thinking it was my friend, scurrying about in dark places devouring cutworms, snails and other enemies. Then, to my horror and many seasons of chewed-up plants later, I discovered that I was harbouring some very nasty creatures right under my nose and right under my roses and paeonies.
    So - how to recognize the bad guys! First of all, beetles make up the largest order of all living things - almost 300,000 species. You can always tell a beetle from the straight line going down the center of its back, where its hard front wings join. They have a set of hard wings. From here on, it behooves the serious gardener to know who his friends are, who to respect and who to despise, and then protect his territory as well as the good guys.

Here are the ones you are most likely to encounter on the patio, under rocks, debris, the shady recesses of hostas, or even under the front doormat. They are mostly nocturnal so unless you are going to move your garden ornament and catch one by surprise, you aren't likely to encounter them. Most of them are black with a shield-shaped body and a tempting-to-squash look. Don't! Ugly or not, he's your friend, dining on ants, aphids, cutworms, flies, gypsy moths, slugs & snails, mosquitoes, spider mites, termites - but not plants.

Lady Beetles

Affectionately known as ladybugs or ladybirds, this little beetle can eat thousands of aphids from tight little buds and other places sprays can't reach. It may produce several generations of greedy offspring in one summer. Its ugly little larvae start out as a cluster of orange eggs and can be seen standing on end in clumps under leaves-they resemble miniature black spiny alligators with orange spots. Each one will devour about 400 aphids as they grow up.

Rove Beetles

This one is very active and speedy, quite slender for a beetle, and looks like an earwig without the pinchers. It scavenges in decaying material and is an important predator of cabbage beetles. It has a curious habit of raising the back end of its body when running around. Kind of a cannibal, eating other beetles.

Soldier Beetles

This one is only useful for the larvae it produces as the beetle itself gives up its soldiering ways and spends the rest of its days lazing about on flowers. Having spent its larval stage as an insect predator, it becomes a brownish rectangular beetle with long antennae.

Click Beetles

This is the one famous for being able to right itself when it is on its back by flipping in the air accompanied by the sound of a click. We think they are harmless. But their larvae, the wireworms, feed on the underground roots, tubers, seeds and bulbs and are quite destructive. They are wiry and hard to kill. You will find them in soggy ground and often when transplanting - they curl in a spiral and can live eight years.

Japanese Beetles

Enemy Number One! What a mess they can make chewing on the roses and hollyhocks and many trees and flowers. The C-shaped grubs under lawns cause brown patches of grass. The invasion took place in New Jersey in 1916 on some plants from Japan, and they are about as popular as Japanese cars in Detroit. You will find half a dozen at a time if they don't scurry away. They are black with a bright red/brown back. If you forget all the above, just remember the Boland sisters advice: "If it moves slowly enough, step on it; if it doesn't, leave it - it'll probably kill something else."

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"Dad?" I asked.
"Yes, son?" There was a manic gleam in his eyes.
"Why are you torturing that tree?"
"It's a Bonsai, I'm training it."
"Isn't that a Japanese war cry?"
That's Bansai."
"Oh."

"Dad?"
"Yes, son?"
"What are these plants doing here?" I asked pushing the leaves out of my face.
"They're Dexters." He looked into the back seat. "Son? What are you looking for?"
"Dad, Janice is back here somewhere but I can't seem to find her."
"Just listen for the sound of her voice."

We found my sister three days later in the backyard. My father had planted her up to her knees, said something about her foliage being a rare color.

I think I still blame myself. I mean if I had been there for him, played baseball or basketball with him, something a normal father would appreciate. But I guess I didn't see the signs. He still talked about women at least, Josephine Everitt, Nancy Evans, Mary Belle, Mary Fleming (he sure knew a lot of Mary's). I felt bad for Mom but at least he was in touch with reality, although where he met a girl named Yaku Queen I'll never know.  But things just got worse and worse. Our family vacations started to take the strangest routes. I remember a trip we once took to Philadelphia.

"Dad, where are we going?"
"To Philadelphia. Where else?"
"Then what are we doing in Rhode Island?"
"We're taking a short detour."
"To where?"
"Bayview Nursery."

"Dad, I said, "she's eight years old."
"But look at the coverage on it."

I seem to recall him kissing a leaf, but the memory is painful. Eventually I was old enough to work in the garden and was taught the arcane art of budding.

"Now just pull the one in the center off, just at the bottom."
"What if there are two?"
"Then you cut them both in half, pull out some Crazy Glue and make one good one."

But it's too late now. I'm out of the house and studying hard, hoping some day to go to Medical School. And anyway it's too late to help him. Of course I still listen to him when he talks about peat moss mixtures and yellow hardies and new hybrids I have to have. I'm his son. I guess the only time that it really bothers me is when my friends ask me what my father does.

"He's a farmer."
"He's a what?" they say. Then they pat me on the shoulder and sympathize with me.
"He does a little dentistry on the side, kind of a hobby," I say.

But I'm not really ashamed; after all, it does keep him off the streets and out of trouble. And he sure does meet a lot of girls.

(From New York Chapter’s publication, Rhodora, Fall & Winter 1998 issue. Permission to use granted by Editors Albert J. Muller and R. W. Martin and Dr. and Mrs. Waldman for the author, Dr. Barry Waldman)

[Editor: Thanks to the Waldmans for sharing such a delightful story. Every family who has an avid rhododendron enthusiast in their midst can certainly relate to this. Dr. Barry Waldman has a wonderful sense of humor. Dr. and Mrs. Philip Waldman, his parents, own and operate Roslyn Nursery on Long Island.]

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    The significance here is the use of words containing the letter 'X'. Letters at the end of the alphabet have been getting short shrift for a long time and now they are out for revenge This is the advent of the Glottal Charter of Rights. Zealous watchers will also have noticed increased use of words with an intermediate, not terminal, 'Y', as in 'oxymoron' and the present zestful fervor for the use of words with 'Z' in them.

    As an example, one word that's getting the tops and bottoms of its letters abraded by overuse is 'xerophytic'. One cannot read a gardening magazine or attend a horticultural meeting without being deluged (a super word in this context) by 'xerophytic' , 'xeriscaping' , and 'xeromorphic' . The popularity of these words, no doubt, reflects the perceived need by their users of probity, prudence and political correctness in broaching sensitive subjects like global warming and raising the Sooke dam. But to me their overuse makes the message more xerolic and less germane. Do you not agree with me that there is something oxymoronic about a xerophytic garden?

    Recently a customer called wanting Rhododendron xanthostephanum. I was impressed. I had never had anyone ask for this plant before. The prospective grower said he wanted it because he didn't have a rhododendron in his garden that started with an 'X'. He also said that he wanted it to add to his collection of rhododendrons. You can immediately see how 'au fait' he is in attempting to meet his quota for the alphabetically deprived.

    This got me thinking. If my theory on the resurgence of the alphabets nether extremities is not all wet, i.e., xerophobic, and holds water, then the best selling rhododendron species are going to be R. xanthostephanum, R. xanthocodon and R. zaleucum. Rhododendron xanthocodon has been having its lumps recently having been demoted to a sub-species of R. cinnabarinum by Cullen and Chamberlin. (Good old Davidian, the gardener's taxonomist, still gives it specific rank and says it differs markedly from R. cinnabarinum.) I will keep giving it its majority not only because of its distinctive appearance but mainly because of the noise the word makes. To ensure it makes the top ten all we need is to have Ian McTaggart-Cowan say it to as many people as possible. One usually hears it as zan-tho-co-don; the way a six-year old who is still being taught to read phonetically would pronounce it. Ian must have learned the 'whole language' way and it rolls off his tongue with a dynamism that brings back youthful memories of hearing the famous locomotive - 'The Flying Scotsman' - roaring through the border country.

    Anyway, after my customer's request, I immediately struck some cuttings of R. xanthostephanum. I have to admit that I had forgotten all about having a plant of xanthostephanum in the garden but quickly rediscovered it. I also put in some zaleucum but couldn't find a xanthocodon (Go on, say it) and so had to do with R. concatenans.

    The 'drum' part is especially good because many people like to call our favorite plants 'rhododendrums'. It is, arguably, easier to say it that way but it is probably too late to change. No matter, 'oxydendrum' has a virile vibrancy to it and gardeners are going to be visually and aurally satisfied by growing it. (I have not been able to trace why the 'drum' ending became accepted. It seems to come from the same 'tree-dendros' Greek root). In any event Bailey (New Encyclopedia of American Gardening) called it oxydendrum years ago. Another plant in the same band is clerodendrum.

    Concurrent with the craze to grow plants without water is the one to grow only 'native' plants. The ‘Newfies’ call people not born on the Island "Come from Aways". Newfoundlanders are such friendly people that this is surely not a xenophobic appellation. For some neo-gardeners there is, however, a real phobia about growing "Come from Aways". I have a challenge for them. One of the most majestic of our British Columbian natives is Bear Grass. I remember being so impressed by it the first time I saw it growing among widely spaced Ponderosa pines. Xerophyllum tenax - what a name! It meets all the specifications of our politically sensitive contemporary gardener. It has two 'X's', it is 'native', and it wants a dry environment. Unfortunately, it needs other conditions not easy for us in Victoria to provide but that should just add some cultural zest for the anti-exotic enthusiasts.

    I am sure readers can think of many more examples of 'new wave' plants. Share around. One I would caution about is Zygadenus. It has locution, it is native, but the overall flavour is not good. The Death Camus was carefully culled out from the beds of nourishing Camus by our native people. We should do the same no matter what the trendy political mores are. And remember, don't be an oxymoron, whatever that means.

Willamette Chapter

----Irveta Johnson

(From Willamette Chapter Newsletter, April 1999. Permission to use granted by author, Irveta Johnson, and newsletter editor, Herb Spady)

Their address is:

E.N.C.O. Construction, Inc.
P.O. Box 1064
Seward, Alaska 99664

[Thanks to Ms. Koppy for saving and sharing Mr. Selfors article. Editor]

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